How to Visit Denali National Park by Shuttle Bus

Park shuttle buses leave throughout the day from the Visitor Center, near the park entrance. You may take the 8 hour round trip excursion to Eielson Visitor Center, 66 miles into the park, or the 11 hour round trip ride to Wonder Lake, 86 miles into the park. Limited bus seats are available in advance by phone reservation. Reservations may be made in person at the Visitor Center which is open daily from 7 am - 6 pm. These tickets will be issued up to two days in advance. There is a reservation fee of $4.00 for all tickets, in addition to the entrance fee. Throughout the summer, demand for shuttle seats is quite high, so be prepared to enjoy activities in the park entrance area for a day or two before venturing further west. Note that people westbound from Savage and Teklanika Campgrounds must have a ticket to get on the shuttle bus.

Although parking is limited at the Visitor Center, there is a satellite lot at Riley Creek Campground. A free mini-shuttle will transport you from the campground to the Visitor Center where you will pick up your shuttle bus to Eielson or Wonder Lake. Be sure to bring the following items along with you, making sure that they will fit beneath you seat: lunch and a drink; warm jacket, hat, and raingear; camera; binoculars; insect repellent; and walking shoes.

During your trip, the bus driver will stop for wildlife viewing when conditions are safe. While observing the animals, stay quiet so that they may continue their activities undisturbed. Bus drivers do not give guide tours; however, they are very knowledgeable about the area and can answer your questions concerning the park's cultural and natural history.

The park road runs through some of the richest wildlife habitat in Denali. Riding on a shuttle bus enhances your chances of spotting wildlife, since there are many pairs of alert eyes concentrating on the landscape rather than just your own. Keep in mind that the more time you spend in the park, the better your chances of seeing animals.

Feel free to get off the bus and explore at your own pace. If a few buses pass you by, don't panic! Eventually, one with available seats will stop for you. Remember, the more you explore, the higher your reward.

The following guide is based on a 47 page book called The Denali Road Guide, by Kim Heacox, available through the Alaska Natural History Association. Since Denali's animals are wild, they may not always be found in the places indicated by this guide. If you stay alert during the entire trip, you will be more likely to find both the commonly seen animals mentioned below, as well as more elusive ones like wolverines, lynx and unusual birds. Hopefully this description of the road will give you an indication of what awaits you during a journey through Denali!

Park Headquarters to Savage River - Erratics: Two huge boulders near the top of the long, sloping ridge south of Park Headquarters. These erratics were carried there by glacial ice and deposited when the ice retreated. Taiga: You will be traveling through the taiga - a circumpolar boreal forest. Moose raise their calves in the shelter of these white and black spruce trees. Taiga/Tundra Ecotone: Gaining elevation, you enter a transitional zone between the taiga and the tundra. Here, spruce give place to dwarf willows, and caribou become more common than moose. Denali (Mt. McKinley): At mile 9.4 look to the southwest where, if the day is clear, you may catch a glimpse of Denali framed by Double and Sable Mountains. From this point, Mt. McKinley is about 70 air miles away.

Savage River to Teklanika River - Savage River Bridge: Beyond this point, road travel is restricted to protect wildlife and habitat from the pressures of unlimited traffic. You will notice a smooth, U-shaped valley to the south through which the river runs. This riverbed was carved by a glacier which advanced no further than the bridge. On the north side, the river runs through a sharp, V-shaped canyon carved by water without the help of ice. Caribou: Along the Sanctuary Flats, you may catch a glimpse of caribou passing through as they migrate north from calving grounds in the Alaska Range. Drunken Forest: After crossing the Sanctuary River, the road climbs, offering a view to the south of taiga trees leaning at all angles. The "drunken" effect is caused by the sliding of water-saturated soil which pulls the poorly rooted trees downhill. Teklanika River: Rivers carrying glacial outwash typically run in several channels rather than in the deep, single bed of a meandering river. Since the various channels weave back and forth across the U-shaped valleys, they are known as braided rivers.

Igloo Creek to East Fork Bridge - Dall Sheep: After you cross the Teklanika Bridge, Igloo Mountain will be seen on the right and Cathedral Mountain on the left. Often, bands of Dall sheep can be spotted on the slopes of both of these mountains. Without binoculars, they usually appear as small white dots. Grizzly Bears: The Sable Pass Critical Wildlife Habitat Closure consists of five miles of prime grizzly habitat which, except for the road, is closed to humans. Denali's grizzlies tend to have very light colored coats and weigh an average of 200-400 lbs.

Polychrome Pass to Divide Mountain - Wolves: Although wolf sightings are rare, some visitors are fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of these shy and intelligent predators. Denali is one of the few places in the world where wild wolves and their prey interact without human interference. Kettle Ponds: Scattered across the Plains of Murie, below the Polychrome Rest Stop, you will see small ponds formed by large blocks of ice deposited when the glaciers receded. Toklat Bridge: Below Polychrome Pass, the Toklat River forks around the flanks of Divide Mountain.

Toklat River to Eielson Visitor Center - Highway Pass: At 3,980 feet above sea level, this is the highest point on the park road. Stony Overlook: On a clear day, Denali, only 36 air miles away, rises above the Alaska Range. Eielson Visitor Center: Named after Alaska's pioneering aviator, Carl Ben Eielson, this facility has restrooms, water, a bookstore, and exhibits. The view of Denali and the Alaska Range is spectacular when the clouds lift.

Eielson to Wonder Lake - Muldrow Glacier: Visible from Eielson Visitor Center, this glacier winds 32 miles down from the heights of Denali. Rock and sediment have provided a surface on which plants can grow, disguising the ice as hummocky tundra. Beaver: From the road, you can see beaver lodges and dams on the numerous tundra ponds. Waterfowl: Watch especially for various species of waterfowl which raise their young in the wet tundra near the ponds. Wonder Lake: 4 miles long and 280 feet deep, Wonder Lake is home to loons, grebes, and mergansers.

Seeing Denali On Your Own

In order to protect wildlife and its habitat, visitors may not drive their private vehicles past the Savage Check Station (mile 14). However, if you do not have time to wait for a shuttle bus ticket, or if you wish to spend some time exploring the eastern section of the park, there are countless ways to enjoy yourself without riding a bus. Here are just a few of your options:

• Hike an entrance area trail through the taiga forest where wildflowers abound in June and brilliantly colored mushrooms cover the ground in August. If you wish a spectacular view, climb the path to the summit of Mt. Healy.
• Take a walk with a naturalist, watch a sled dog demonstration at the park kennels, or attend an evening slide or campground program.
• Drive the first 14 miles of the park road to the Savage River. This is a beautiful ride between the Alaska Range to the south and the Outer Range to the north. On a clear day, you can see Mt. McKinley from mile 9. Keep your eyes open for moose, caribou, grizzlies and wolves which frequent the area.
• Obtain a backcountry closure map from the Backcountry Desk in the Visitor Center, and pioneer your own route from the park road into the Outer Range.
• Park your vehicle at the Savage parking lot to explore the riverbanks or ridges. If you scan the rocks near the summits, you may catch a glimpse of Dall sheep, while harlequin ducks can be found nesting on the riverbars.
• Flightseeing tours, rafting trips, and horseback riding are offered outside of the park. Ask at the Visitor Center for information on local businesses.

These are but a few of the many activities along the first 14 miles of the park road. Take advantage of your time here to photograph the mountains, to admire the spring wildflowers, or to sample the fall blueberries. Although the shuttle bus offers access to the beauty west of the Savage River, do not overlook the charms of the east within easy reach. Seeing Denali Via a Bus Tour

ARA, the park concessionaire, operates two tours within Denali National Park. Tour drivers for Tundra Wildlife Tours describe the wildlife, plants, geology, and history of the park on a 6-7 hour trip. Buses depart daily from the Denali Park Hotel every morning and afternoon. Drivers stop to allow wildlife viewing and photography.

The Natural History Tour to Primrose Turnaround (mile 17.2) is a 2 1/2 to 3 hour narrated tour describing the natural and cultural history of Denali.

Camping

Denali National Park has seven campgrounds with a total of 291 sites. If you cannot make a phone reservation, you may reserve a campsite in person up to two days in advance at the Visitor Center. In addition to camping and entrance fees, there is a $4.00 reservation fee, whether arrangements are made by phone or in person. No refunds are given for unused campground stays in any park campgrounds. Plan to camp outside of the park when you first arrive; there is often a two night wait for park campsites. You may camp a total of 14 days in Park Service campgrounds.

Camper Buses - Since Sanctuary, Igloo, and Wonder Lake campgrounds are accessible only by bus, special camper buses are provided to take campers and their gear into the park. Make reservations for a campsite and sign up for a camper bus at the Visitor Center desk. Be sure to sign up for your return trip to the entrance of the park as well. Park your vehicle in the Riley Creek Campground satellite parking lot where the camper bus will pick you up. You may also board at the Visitor Center. Although the camper bus can accommodate more luggage than regular shuttle buses, for your own convenience, pack efficiently, taking only necessary gear.

Teklanika Campground - Teklanika campers may drive their vehicles to the campground. However, in order to reduce road traffic, there is a minimum three night stay. Make sure you use the dump site at Riley Creek Campground and get all necessary items before going to Teklanika. There are no gas stations or services west of the Denali Park Hotel, and no telephones west of Park Headquarters. Once at the campground, you may not return temporarily to headquarters, since transportation back to the campground is unavailable. Your road pass is good only for one trip into the campground and one trip out. Leave towed vehicles in the Riley Creek satellite parking lot. To venture further west into the park, you must have a shuttle bus ticket.

Backpacker Campground - The Morino Backpacker campground is available for those backpackers who arrive without their own transportation. This 60 site campground is located one quarter mile west of the Alaska Railroad Depot. Self-register at Morino.

Group Campgrounds - Group sites are located at Savage Campground (mile 13). There are three tent-only sites for 9-20 people each. Advance registrations are available after October 1, 1993. Write to Denali National Park, Box 9, Denali National Park, Alaska 99755.

Check with Park personnel to determine the latest camping regulations, food storage requirements, and safety precautions prior to camping at Denali.

Golden Eagle Research at Denali

Denali National Park and Preserve is one of the best places in North America to observe many species of large mammals in a relatively undisturbed environment. As you search the rolling tundra for bears, wolves, moose, and caribou, take a minute to glance skyward. Scan the mountain tops, ridgelines, and sky; inevitably, you will catch a glimpse of one of the largest avian predators in North America: the golden eagle.

Seventy pairs of eagles breed within the Denali study area which stretches from the Nenana River, north of the Alaska Range, to Wonder Lake. This is the largest known breeding population in Alaska. In 1987, a study on the nesting ecology of golden eagles in Denali was began by Carol McIntyre. Her research focuses on the reproductive performance of golden eagles as well as nest site characteristics, nesting chronology, food habits and, to a lesser extent, the migration of juvenile eagles. Each year, she collects data on the number of territorial birds present in the study area. Since the study area is large, and all nesting sites must be observed within the space of just a few days, helicopters are used to conduct most surveys. However, intensive observations and nest visits are conducted on foot, and sometimes, in the early spring, by dog sled.

Denali's golden eagles return from their wintering grounds in March. In late April, just after egg-laying is completed, the first survey is conducted to count the number of territorial pairs and breeding pairs - those with eggs. Since golden eagles build large, conspicuous nests, usually on inaccessible cliffs, it is relatively easy to spot the nest locations.

From mid-June through mid-July, all breeding pair nests are revisited to determine the number of chicks hatched. During this time, selected nests are entered in order to measure nestlings and fit them with U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service aluminum leg bands. A third survey is conducted in late July, just prior to fledging, to observe the number of fledglings produced. Using the data collected during these three surveys, estimates of territory occupancy, reproductive effort and reproductive success of the population can be calculated annually.

Results indicate that the number of territories occupied each year does not change significantly, suggesting that the population is relatively stable. An average of 75% of all known nesting areas in Denali consistently remain in use. However, reproductive effort, the number of pairs laying eggs, and reproductive success, the number of pairs raising fledglings, vary significantly through the years. The number of fledglings produced per year has been as high as 89 in 1989 and as low as 19 in 1992. Not surprisingly, certain pairs of eagles contribute more to the production of fledglings than others, with 78% of all fledglings coming from only thirty breeding pairs.

Since most eagles leave Denali for their wintering grounds by late September, fledgling eagles have only a month to master their bunting skills. Nonetheless, according to data gathered from banding recoveries and satellite telemetry tracking, these juveniles succeed in migrating to winter habitats in Idaho, Montana, and Colorado. Unfortunately, most threats to Denali's golden eagles, old and young, exist outside the boundaries of the park. Birds that migrate south are exposed to poisoning, electrocution, illegal shooting and trapping, and loss of habitat.

Fishing

Fish can't tolerate the conditions of most rivers inside the park which contain a milky suspension of pulverized silt, known as rock flour, from glacial runoff. As a result, fishing in the park is poor. In a few, clear, mountain streams, arctic grayling may be caught, and lake (Mackinaw) trout can be found in Wonder Lake. No license is required to fish in the Denali Wilderness . Check at a ranger station or visitor center for limits and other regulations.

Biking

Bicycling, which becomes more popular in Denali each year, does not require a travel permit, although overnight trips require registration at the Visitor Center. Bicyclists should become familiar with park rules and regulations before venturing out. For the safety of yourself and others, pick up the bicycle "Rules of the Road" at the Visitor Center when you pay your entrance fee. On the road, stop whenever a vehicle approaches. Skateboards and roller blades are prohibited within the park.

What's the Fall Road Lottery?

Each fall, some private cars are allowed to drive the length of the park road. A lottery determines which applicants receive road travel permits. The road opening dates are usually in September Contact the park for the dates this year.